Only Half Crazy

I took a break last weekend from finals-studying and paper-writing to introduce my feet to 13.1 miles of downtown Pittsburgh. There’s actually a fairly avid group of runners in the CS department here and I had contemplated doing the full race with them, but decided I wasn’t sure if I could commit to the training schedule. (Ever since running the Des Moines marathon two and half years ago, my feelings have managed to morph from, “There is no way I’m ever putting myself through this again,” to, “Well, we’ll see,” to, “Yeah, that’d be fun!” Rosy retrospection at its finest, I guess.) But when some friends declared they planned to run the half marathon and suggested I join, I happily agreed.

Training for half of a marathon is not nearly so grueling as training for all of one — missing a long run or two might affect my time, but not my ability to finish in the first place. My biggest worry at the time was that race day might be unbearably hot; I’d enjoyed absolutely perfect running weather in Des Moines two years prior and I wasn’t confident my luck would hold out for a second go-round. Thankfully, I worried needlessly — the weather was perfect again. In fact, as I groggily rolled out of bed at 5:15AM (I hadn’t seen those numbers on a clock for quite some time, and hopefully won’t see them again anytime soon), Siri told me the current temperature was a crisp 55°. Not wanting to lose too much body heat before the race, I dusted off an old trick I learned from my instructor back at UIowa (running in Des Moines was the culmination of a marathon training class) and cut holes in a garbage bag to wear to the starting line. (It blocks the wind, but you can ditch it when the race starts without actually losing a real shirt.) I had seen plenty of people doing the same back in Des Moines, so I didn’t think this would look strange … until, upon arriving downtown, I scanned the crowd and couldn’t spot a single garbage bag save my own reflection in the window of a bank. (I eventually spotted two others while standing in line at the port-a-potties and felt a little better.)

I don’t remember how many fellow runners joined me in DM, but the turnout in Pittsburgh felt much larger. 30,000 runners crowded onto the course that morning, which meant two things. First, I didn’t cross the starting line until thirteen minutes after the official start (it’s okay, though; your finish time is determined by a chip attached to your bib, which registers when you actually cross the starting and finish lines). Second, I spent the first two or three miles weaving through the throng of runners, trying to pass the slow ones. While slightly annoying, this had the benefit of preventing me from giving in to the adrenaline and running too hard at the beginning.

The run was was actually really enjoyable. For those who aren’t experts in western Pennsylvania’s geography (gosh, what’s wrong with you!?), Pittsburgh sits at the intersection of three rivers. Downtown is riddled with bridges, five of which the half marathon course traversed, making for some pretty spectacular scenery. (The bridges proved to be the preferred spots for spectators, especially those sporting cameras hoping for a cool shot of their friends.) I took a fairly easy pace for the first half of the race (partially because, as I mentioned, I had no choice), but as the crowd thinned I pushed harder. My expectations weren’t high — my goal was just to come in under two hours, or, as a stretch goal, 1:45. I was both surprised and pleased, then, with my 1:42 finish. (If you’re curious, you can see my run as tracked by my iPhone here.) Here’s me post-race (along with my medal declaring me a “Runner of Steel”):

Me after the Pittsburgh half marathon.

I’m beginning to learn a universal truth about marathons: they attract crazy people. Like, really crazy people. In Des Moines, I found myself at one point running alongside someone running his 106th marathon (including, if I recall correctly, at least one in each state) and not long after that I met a man who had run a different marathon the day before. This year in Pittsburgh, although I never saw him, was a man running the entire 26.2 miles blindfolded to raise money for a charity that had helped his daughter, who was born blind. And he wasn’t the only runner whose insanity supported a good cause — another marathoner spent 48 straight hours leading up to the marathon running on a treadmill. If running half a marathon qualifies me as half crazy, these guys are off the charts.

Aside from being reassured that there are, in fact, plenty of people who are more nuts than you are, one of the most enjoyable parts of the race is reading the witty signs some of the spectators wave above their heads to encourage the runners. I wish I could remember more, but here’s a small sampling:

“At least you’re beating everyone behind you!”

“Run! There are zombies chasing you!”

“Worst Parade Ever”

“Because 26.3 would just be crazy.”

Some of the runners joined in the fun themselves with t-shirts proclaiming:

“This seemed like such a good idea six months ago”

“Yet another brilliant idea conceived at happy hour…”

So there you have it: cool weather, tons of people, a decent finish, plenty of crazies, and witty-sign-toting spectators. But I’ve saved the best for last. Once I left the finish chute and scarfed down a banana and a bagel, I needed to find a restroom. I didn’t have to wander far, and then … there they were. Flushable port-a-potties. I work in a building full of some pretty cutting edge technology, but these took the cake. They were clean, they didn’t smell, and they flushed! Why it took so long for someone to make one of these I’ll never know, but regardless, I’m a fan.

So there you really have it: cool weather, tons of people, a decent finish, plenty of crazies, witty-sign-toting spectators, and flushable port-a-potties. It all added up to a really enjoyable morning and, call me half crazy, I’m sure I’ll do it again next year.

Clinging to Summer Part 2: Spain

After having finally adjusted to the new time zone to the point where I could sleep past 5AM, I was up at 4:30 to catch the bus to the airport. I got a bit of a surprise after stumbling through security: I ran into an old friend from elementary school who was flying back to Iowa after a three week stint in Europe ending in Helsinki. At first I wasn’t sure it was him (I saw him from behind), but I called his name and, sure enough, I was right. Small world. Two flights and another layover in Paris (which did nothing to secure L’Aéroport Paris-Charles de Gaulle a spot on my list of halfway-decent airports) later I was in Spain at last.

It turns out my visit to Bilbao accidentally (but happily) coincided with La Semana Grande (“Big Week”), an annual week-long festival attracting more than 100,000 people to the city. I found this out from the helpful man with whom I shared the bus ride from the airport into the city center while his two children fidgeted in the seats in front of us. He told me the festival would be huge and suggested places to go for the highest density of food and activities (and also, though a bit less exciting, which transit pass to buy if I wanted to use it on both the trains and the buses). He didn’t mention, and sadly I never found out until after the fact, that one of the festival’s activities is the annual ugly competition (hey, at least it’s more sensible than eating competitions). When the bus arrived downtown at last and its belly-full of travelers and luggage tumbled out onto the sidewalk by the train station, I thanked him for his advice and set out to find my train (and buy my CrediTrans card).

Once I got off the train and found my hostel (I only took one wrong turn — not bad for someone accustomed to carrying Google Maps in his pocket but suddenly forced to do without) and checked in (lack of sleep must have been catching up to me, as I left my credit card behind after paying, forcing the receptionist to chase me down to return it), I decided I was in desperate need of a shower and then food. Having only eaten a small sandwich at the Paris airport sometime late morning, I was quite hungry despite it being only just after 5PM. Since I was probably the only person in the country who considered 5PM “dinner time,” I couldn’t find a restaurant serving dinner and wound up piecing together a meal out of several delicious tapas.

Tapas

Hunger satiated, I set off to explore Casco Viejo (Bilbao’s medieval neighborhood), camera in hand. Thanks to Semana Grande, there was no shortage of things to see. I enjoyed the antics of various street performers before landing in Plaza Nueva, where I paused to watch some mimes perform. As I stood at the edge of the crowd, I noticed a group of children — who were evidently not interested in mimes — playing soccer (sorry, football) at the other end of the plaza. Hoping none of the parents would be upset by a creepy foreigner photographing their children, I snapped a few shots. Though the parents took no notice, I must have caught the eye of one of the kids, because he struck a pose and asked me to take his picture (“¡Foto, foto!”). I happily obliged. Little did I know, I was setting myself up for a serendipitous encounter two days later: on Sunday, I ran into the boy again in a completely different part of town. He recognized me first and asked me if I was the one who had taken his photo (“¿Estuviste en la Plaza Nueva ayer, no? ¡Sacaste mi foto!”). I showed him the picture, which he said came out well (“¡Sacó bien!”) and he posed for me again, this time with a friend. Then they taught me how to say goodbye in Basque (“Agur”).

Boy in Plaza Nueva Boy and Friend

The next day I fulfilled my duty as a tourist and made the obligatory trip to the Guggenheim Museum’s Bilbao branch (who knew there was more than one?). My timing was perfect, too, as the family in front of me had purchased tickets in advance online but had gotten one too many, which they graciously offered to me. The place was not monstrously large; moving at a leisurely pace, I managed to cover all of the galleries in three or four hours. My favorite by far was a temporary exhibit by British painter David Hockney, who has, as of late, been painting with his iPad (though I really enjoyed his earlier work too). Unfortunately, photography is not permitted inside the museum. Fortunately, the outside is every bit as spectacular as the inside — I’m not sure the architect has ever seen a straight line in his life.

Guggenheim Bilbao Spider

But Hockney’s iPad pieces weren’t the only masterpieces I saw that weekend. My last night in Bilbao I went back to Casco Viejo to revel in the festivities once more and I happened upon a man making fantastically detailed paintings with spray paint. To his left, he had on display two dozen or so finished pieces, which I scanned as I watched him pull out a blank sheet of paper, incredulous that he could really be so precise with spray paint. Watching him work was mesmerizing: he began by spraying large portions of the paper and smudging with his fingers here and there. Then he switched to spraying a bit of paint in a small area and shaping it before it dried with a scrap of newspaper folded to the size of a business card. When it came time for an even finer level of detail, he sprayed his paint onto a scrap of cardboard (sometimes mixing multiple colors), dipped his newspaper “brush” into the resulting puddle, and applied the paint in crisp, controlled strokes. I stayed to watch for at least fifteen minutes and I wasn’t alone — he attracted quite the crowd.

Spray Paint Master Impressive Collection

I finished out my last night in Bilbao (amid more aimless wandering) with an enormous tortilla sandwich. The streets were lined with shops whose windows were piled high with stack after stack of sandwiches — how could I leave without sampling one? (In fact, I’m almost disappointed I left without sampling every variety.)

Sandwiches

In keeping with my pattern for the trip, my flight the next morning left at an unspeakable hour. It’s a good thing it didn’t leave any earlier, though, as I was already on the first bus leaving for the airport. The trip home was a drowsy blur, but I eventually made it back to Pittsburgh, where I promptly slept for a week straight.

TG(IF)

My credit card company must think I’m a drunk.

This year I agreed to take charge of Dec/5, the social organization for grad students in SCS (SCS is the School of Computer Science, in which Computer Science is just one department — yeah, there’s a lot of computer science here). The primary function of Dec/5 is organizing the roughly bi-weekly “TG” (short for “TGIF” — I think the definition of lazy is abbreviating an acronym*). TGs are Friday happy hours for SCS grad students, staff, and faculty, and each one is typically sponsored by a company like Google or Facebook looking to hire interns for the summer or recent PhDs for full-time positions. They come, treat us to free beer, food, and swag, and schmooze with potential new hires.

What this means for me: along with tending to mundane details like coordinating dates and reserving space, I’m trusted with the crucial task of ordering the beer. I have this down to a science (the owner of the beer distributor we use, Diane, knows me now). I call on Wednesday and place the initial order. On Thursday they call me back with our total; if I haven’t hit the limit set by that TG’s sponsor, I add one or two more cases. Then, on Friday, a van pulls up with our beer at 3:30, plus or minus ten minutes. The delivery guys also know me — one of them is actually a computer science student at Pitt, and every time he laments that no one ever buys his department beer. After the handoff, I wheel the beer cart inside and guard it until 4:30 when we actually start setting up. (One time, as I hauled the cart inside, two undergrads passed me. One said, “Whoa, what is all that for??” to which the other replied, dejectedly, “Grad student stuff.”) And that’s how all this winds up on my credit card every two weeks:

Actually, it’s not up to just me to organize all this; Dec/5 has two presidents at any given time, each serving a one year term in order to appease advisors, who tend to become concerned when their students commit to too much “not research.” And terms are staggered by one semester, so we always have one president who knows what the heck is going on and one who’s learning. I suppose that means next semester I’m supposed to know what the heck is going on…

For those who are curious, these might give you a better sense of what a TG actually looks like:

For those who are even more curious, no, I don’t know why we’re called “Dec/5.” I’ve been told we take our name from the first TG ever held, which was on December 5; others claim it has something to do with the fact that there were five departments in SCS when Dec/5 was originally founded. What I do know is that, thanks to that name, we were short one Facebook engineer at our last TG. His supervisor sent an email “Dec/5 TG at CMU on Nov. 16,” but he must have stopped reading after “Dec/5 TG at CMU,” because the date he cleared on his calendar was December 5. Lesson learned.

 

* Side note: I recently learned most acronyms are not actually acronyms, they’re initialisms. If the abbreviation is pronounced as its own word (like “NATO”) it is truly an acronym; otherwise, it’s an initialism. If that didn’t sufficiently blow your mind, check this out.

Clinging to Summer Part 1: Finland

As my classmates began returning to Pittsburgh from their summer internships, I was regaled with stories of their adventures outside Steeler territory. Then they’d ask, “You were here in Pittsburgh for the summer, right?” To this I would nod, but, not to be outdone by their stories of San Francisco, Seattle, Los Alamos, and Bangalore, I would quickly add, “But I did just get back from Finland!” I had just returned from a (free!) trip to Helsinki to present a demo at a conference. (If you’d like a more photographic, in-the-moment account, it is still available here.)

The trip started as too few do: relaxed and over-prepared. Leery of missing my overseas flight, I found myself at my gate two and a half hours early. Fortunately, George, another CMU student who attended the conference with me, was waiting for his flight at the neighboring gate, so I was able to pass at least part of my wait with him. It wasn’t until I boarded my plane that the trip took a turn for the worse — I shuffled down the aisle, maneuvered my poster tube into the overhead bin, and took my seat next to a young couple … and their baby. Now, just because I too was once a screaming, squirming ball of snot does not make me any happier about sitting next to one for a 7+ hour flight. Thankfully, the father (somewhat apologetically) asked if I’d be willing to move to an empty seat so they’d have more room for the baby; he said if I preferred he’d be more than willing to move instead so as not to trouble me. I smiled and assured him I was happy to move (as if I were generously doing so for their sake and not mine). Not only did I escape the the kid, I ended up with an entire half-row of three seats to myself! Best sleep I’ve ever gotten on an airplane.

I made my connection in Paris with no trouble, arrived in Helsinki right on schedule, and found the bus that would take me into the city.  As the bus filled up, a guy about my age took the seat next to me and we introduced ourselves. When he asked where I’d come from, I told him “Pittsburgh.” His response caught me off guard: “Pittsburgh with the ‘h,’ I assume?” Confused, I nodded as he explained that he was from Pittsburg, Kansas. (For the unreasonably curious: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania once flirted with the idea of dropping its ‘h,’ but ultimately decided to keep it.) Before his stop, I learned that he was an exchange student preparing to spend a year in Finland and that he spoke as much Finnish as I did.

Later that night, after finding our hotel and registration packets, George and I explored downtown Helsinki in search of food. As we retraced our steps back to the hotel, he pointed out something he’d noticed earlier: a dining table suspended from a crane in the middle of a plaza. For upwards of €150 per person, a group of 20 or so people, joined by the chef, can dine above the Helsinki skyline. A good deal of the surrounding plaza is roped off, presumably to prevent tragic whoops-I-dropped-my-steak-knife accidents. (Also, I wonder if swaying-in-the-breeze sickness is as big a problem as seasickness.) Though tempted, we resigned ourselves to the fact that the only airborne meals for which CMU was going reimburse us were the ones we had scarfed down in-flight hours earlier.

We continued wandering, discovering that Helsinki is a pretty darn pleasant city. The city center is relatively compact, so it’s easy to explore on foot, and for slightly out-of-the-way places, the public transportation is great. Small parks (or at least big fields) popped up everywhere, always filled with small groups lounging in the grass. Helsinki’s also evidently known for its architecture.

But enough fun: it’s time for the part of my story I call: “How I learned that international shipping is stupidly harder than it should be (or: How I earned a few gray hairs in Finland this summer).” Before leaving Pittsburgh, we shipped ourselves a box of equipment we’d need for the demo (projectors, cables, adapters, etc.). It was scheduled to arrive Monday; our demo was Wednesday. Its continued absence on Tuesday prompted me to check its status online (yes, I should have done this sooner). To my dismay, I was greeted with bold red text proclaiming, “DELAYED: Clearance instructions from the importer are required.” The box was stuck in customs, where it would remain until we paid an outrageous fee to have it released (the idea being to stop the Finnish from evading taxes by buying electronics from U.S. retailers like Amazon — if I hadn’t had other things to worry about, I would have attempted to argue that we were not importing anything permanently; it was all leaving with us in a matter of days!). A frantic flurry of emails and phone calls later, our gear was once again in motion, though FedEx could not commit to a delivery date. The morning of the demo we wrung our hands and wracked our brains for ways to run the demo without it, but the demo gods were feeling generous that day and about two and half hours before the start of the session, the demo coordinator came in grinning and said, “You’ll be happy to know there’s a package with your name on it downstairs.” Wheeeew. (The package got stuck again on the way back to the U.S., this time lacking paperwork declaring that our projectors complied with FCC standards. *Sigh.*)

FedEx-induced panic attack aside, the demo went well, as did George’s talk the following day. Both relieved to be done, we spent our last night in Helsinki roaming the city once more. For dinner we landed at “Colorado Bar and Grill” — I’m used to seeing restaurants serving food from around the world here in the U.S., but for some reason finding an American restaurant in Europe caught me by surprise. The food was delicious, though the portions were mammoth (perhaps in keeping with the American theme?) and neither of us could finish.

 

I’ll wrap up with my three overall impressions of Helsinki: First, we saw quite a lot of the sun; it set around 10PM and rose by 5:30AM. They pay for the extra daylight during the winter, I guess. Second, “bike friendly” barely begins to describe the place. Sidewalks have a designated “walking” and “cycling” sides — woe to the clueless foreigner who walks in the bike lane. And finally, an inordinate percentage of the population has blond hair and blue eyes. It’s remarkable (hence my remark).

All My Bags Are Packed, I’m Ready to Go

Both lies. Unfortunately, that doesn’t change that fact that in three days I will indeed be leaving on a jet plane. On Sunday I fly to Finland to give a demo at a computer networking conference in Helsinki, after which I’ll stop in Bilbao, Spain for a couple days of sightseeing on my own. I’ll be posting short updates and a few photos at the link below (also accessible by clicking “Finland/Spain” in the menu bar above) and writing longer, more detailed posts as I have time.

Trip Log

I’m busy packing, planning, and putting finishing touches on the demo, so I’ll save more words for next week when I have something more interesting to say. In the meantime, for those who are curious about exactly what I’ll be demoing, our project website is here, and here are the posters I put together to accompany the demo:

Project Overview Poster
Demo Walk-Through Poster

Welcome to Gotham

This post is woefully late, but fortunately the recent release of The Dark Knight Rises makes the title relevant again, so here goes. When I moved to Pittsburgh a year ago, it struck me that starting blog would be a good way to keep my friends and family scattered around the world up to date, and yet every time I tried to make it happen the Internet distracted me instead. What finally pushed me to take the plunge was buying my DSLR; Flickr is great, but I wanted a place to share photos along with a bit of explanation from time to time. (So brace yourself for posts from yet another grad-student-who-thinks-he’s-a-photographer — you have been warned.)

But this post isn’t one of them. This is the post I intended to write a year ago as I settled in in Pittsburgh. First things first: I missed my chance to be a movie star. As my parents, sister, and I stood in my new kitchen while my landlord presented me with keys and paperwork, she asked if we had brought a GPS unit with us. Smiling and proud of ourselves for having come prepared to take on a new city, we told her we had. “Well, it won’t do you any good. They’re filming the new Batman movie here, so there are detours everywhere. Plus Pittsburgh has a knack for confusing GPSs to begin with.” If we hadn’t been so exhausted from driving across the eastern half of the country and so busy running around town collecting furnishings for my apartment, it would have been fun to venture downtown to take a look. Ah, well. (Though even if we had, extras had been selected two months prior, so I guess I’m meant to be a grad student and not a movie star after all.)

Perhaps it’s better that I didn’t get around to starting this blog as soon as I had intended; with a year under my belt I can actually tell you something more than, “I’m unpacked! And still lost!” In fact, now I can tell you there are only three things you need to know about Pittsburgh: the buses are never on time, there are three Apple stores here, and Pittsburghers don’t speak real English.

Actually, the buses aren’t really that bad, especially once you learn not to check the schedule since it won’t do you any good anyway. What’s more vexing, or was at first, is knowing when to pay. The first time I rode a bus here, I flashed my ID as I got on. No problem. The second time I did the same. The bus driver didn’t say anything, but I began to notice people pay as they shuffled off the bus, so at my stop I showed my ID again and asked the driver, “Am I supposed to show you this when I get off?” She nodded. So, on my third bus ride, I was determined not to look like an out-of-towner by paying as I boarded…until the bus driver scolded me for not doing doing so. Flustered, I dug my ID out of my pocket. “Wait, so I’m supposed to pay getting on the bus?” “Yes.” Thoroughly confused, I put my ID away and found a seat. After a week or so of confusion, it finally occurred to me to check the city transit website, where I found the following:

Generally, fares are paid as the rider boards when heading inbound (toward Downtown/Oakland), or exits when heading outbound (away from Downtown/Oakland). After 7 p.m., bus riders should pay as they board, regardless of direction.

And it occurred to no one to post this on the buses?

If anything could make me forgive the city for its confusing bus system, it is the fact that it is home to not one, not two, but three Apple stores (compared to one in the entire state of Iowa). And, as luck would have it, one of those three sits directly between me and school. At first I worried that this might prove dangerous for my wallet, but since everything inside is so darn expensive, impulse purchases aren’t really a danger. (Thankfully there are no chocolate shops along my walk to campus.) That doesn’t stop me from dropping in on a regular basis — in fact, when Apple announced its new laptops last month, I checked in so often that some employees began to recognize me and would apologetically break the news, “Nope, none today,” before I could open my mouth.

The last thing you need to know about Pittsburgh is that the locals speak a pseudo-English called “Pittsburghese.” For example, rather than adopting the southern “y’all,” Pittsburghers use the word “yinz” as their second person plural pronoun. They also have a terrible habit of dropping the words “to be” from phrases like “needs to be <verbed>.” Sadly, this is no joke — I’ve heard both of these. (One of my lab mates grew up in Pittsburgh, and when I pointed out a typo during a practice talk, he said, “You’re right, this slide needs fixed.” Your slide isn’t the only thing that needs fixed…) At the beginning of the year, the older students in the department threw a party to welcome the new ones. Upon arriving, each first year had to fill out a brief “get to know me” questionnaire that, among questions asking us which text editor is our favorite (don’t laugh, text editor loyalty sparks heated debate among computer scientists) and which professor would win in a Jell-O wrestling competition, required us to translate the following sentence from Pittsburghese to English:

Yinz jaggerbush pierogies need redd up ‘fore the Stillers game.

This translates roughly to the following, although even the older students have no idea what “jaggerbush” is supposed to mean:

Your ??? pierogies need to be heated up before the Steelers game.

(This example prompts me to clarify my statement from above: unlike “y’all,” “yinz” is fairly versatile and functions as a personal pronoun, possessive pronoun, and, as demonstrated here, a possessive adjective.)

And there you have it: Pittsburgh in a nutshell. Now that I’m caught up from year one, I hope to keep the momentum going, but we’ll see what happens. If I fall behind, you can always prod me with an email saying that the blog needs updated…